I love temples. In Japan I spared no opportunity to pop into one if I was in a big city like Kobe or Osaka. Since Buddhism made it's way to Japan from China I supposed that I might find many examples of them in Nanning. Not so, unless they were carefully hidden from me. Nevertheless, my prompting to Xiaoyu that I was so inclined led us, one day, on a trip to the Qingxiu Scenic Spot in the outer suburbs of Nanning.

The grounds of the Guanyin Temple were enormous, so large, in fact, that walking around was not really an option. A fleet of micro-buses ferried weary pilgrims around the enormous circumference of the temple precinct. The central compound of the temple was similar in style to many I had seen in Japan, the practices of worship, prayer and so forth, equally so.

On the way out we became waylaid by a micro-bus and subsequently stranded at an enormous carpark, leaving us no option but to trudge to a crowded bus stop. This didn't bother me, though it seemed to weigh upon Xiaoyu. She said that she didn't like crowds, which I thought was hilarious, given that she lives in China and all.

A couple of shots from the day, one by perhaps the worst photographer in China. The other, by me.

The Ethnological Museum in Nanning is innovative and interesting. As I have previous stated, China has a lot of ethnic minorities and the biggest, the Zhuang, is heavily represented at this institution. From the first photo that I have posted below, you can see that the drum motif is dramatically embodied in the architecture. Drums are omnipresent and clearly served a central cultural, political and economic purpose in Zhuang life. At the rear of the museum is a reconstructed village and should you be so inclined, you can gong a large drum. I was content to watch the kids do it.

I must disclose though that the most exciting room was in a smallish nook which explored cultural artifacts of the past century. In amongst the ancient transistor radios and bicycles was a small display of Cultural Revolution paraphenalia, including some Big Character posters (dàzìbào). This was a very unhappy time for many Chinese though my stumbling upon them was both unexpected and exciting.

One evening Xiaoyu and I went out to dinner with her brother. The restaurant had a kind of cool chic, that is, compared to anything else I had seen in China, which is admittedly very little. The Spicy Storehouse (for such was its name)was all clean white melamine tables, black bench seats, swirling ceiling decor and cool white drop lamps. Large screen TV's hummed silently beneath a sea of laid-back Chinese pop.

The Spicy Storehouse is a hot-pot restaurant. I have forgotten what the Chinese word is, but essentially, a medium flat steel pan sits on a heater in the middle of your table. Ours was divided in two. Different kinds of sauces simmer on either side. Spicy and not so spicy. All sorts of chopped veggies and meats are brought to the table, and then cooked in the sauces. The result is delicious, many, many times over. I am still thinking about it.

I would be remiss if I didn't post a shot of us in situ.

China has a lot of minority ethnic groups and one of the largest is the Zhuang people of Guangxi province. As long as there is no overt political challenge to the CCP, China is happy to allow a thousand ethnic flowers bloom, so to speak. So the Zhuang have many villages in which traditional cultural practices co-exist with modernity. The Zhuang are famous in China for the mass production of an elaborate brass drum, thousands of which have been unearthed all over China.

Xiaoyu and I visited a few Zhuang cultural sites, one of which featured a beautiful example of a Wind and Rain Bridge. The bridge served as a meeting place (and had many other functions to boot)and is one of the most gorgeous structures I have every seen. Xiaoyu took this shot of a section of the bridge. Note the prominent New Years Lanterns.

Towards the end of my stay, Xiaoyu's brother, Ming, invited us to a village on the outskirts of Nanning. The villagers were to have a feast to celebrate the New Year Festival. We arrived on the outskirts of the city and wound down a dusty road through fields of rice and fish ponds. At the end of the road was a cluster of squat brick houses, connected by pathways. Each house had a large courtyard for communal living and eating.

Following the obligatory round of firecrackers (during which a part of my new jacket was incinerated!)we went from house to house, drinking Chinese beer and nibbling at the the array of dishes presented on each table. The people were friendly, the men a little drunk from the incessant toasting and a general carnival atmosphere prevailed. Everyone, from kids to grandmothers, was having a good time. I was mightily impressed by it all.

I include a snap of Xiaoyu and myself on location and another which gives an idea of the festivities.

seasonal disarray
wintry you and summery me,
like ice on fire

On the days we spent scootering around Nanning, I got a very good feel for the place. There is something about being pillion at a relatively low speed that heightens the powers of observation. Things that would have passed me by under normal circumstances hove into view, revealing different facets of life in China.

I also had the privilege of spending time with Xiaoyu's friends in their homes. This again threw up living fragments that I might otherwise have missed, particularly touching upon the rapid changes that Chinese society is experiencing. New apartments replace old dwellings; people move to gleaming, well-planned units with flushing toilets and neat functional kitchens. There are bedrooms and always a balcony with a view to other apartment blocks. And people are very proud of their new homes.

Unfortunately my camera was out of battery power on a couple of these occasions. But I still took plenty of shots on our meanderings between beauty spots and tourist attractions. Xiaoyu took quite a few shots too. Here is one of us outside an impressive public building, the Regional People's Assembly. The other is near an equally impressive bloom of flowers, colourful in the unusually mild winter air.

Every time a conservative government is elected in Australia, and it happens all too frequently, then I hope for the best. Maybe this time the new government will more reasonable, more centrist. Perhaps the nascent administration will eschew the language of the punisher, decide to be more inclusive and less mean spirited.

Within a month, these hopes are dashed. The Abbott Government is as predictable as its predecessors. Self-righteous, arrogant and fed by its own implausible dogmas, the script unfolds as if carved into a tablet centuries before. But here it is, in our very midst, in the modern era.

Xiaoyu borrowed her brother's electric motorbike so we could be free to explore Nanning. I have to confess that the first time I rode pillion with her, it was kind of freaky. Firstly, I wasn't expecting a late might ride home on a scooter. Secondly, no-one wears helmets and they even tend to skimp on headlights, this to conserve power.

The days we rode around Nanning were exhilarating. The traffic danced around us and collisions which seemed inevitable never materialised. It was always the case that someone at the last minute gave way to someone else. We were frequently in a melee of buses, cars, motorbikes and bicycles and somehow it always came together. I could never figure out how.

Xiaoyu cut a somewhat cool figure on her bike and I took the liberty of snapping a few shots when she wasn't watching. Here are a couple. Isn't she cute?

First days.

Xiaoyu was an attentive host. She was very keen that we get to see as much as Nanning had to offer. It is not a city famous for temples or ancient ruins or artifacts, though doubtless these exist just below the surface, as in the rest of China.

But there is still plenty to do. Nanning has a large shopping precinct in the centre and it is very busy. Xiaoyu is not all that fond of crowds but most days we found our way down town from our hotel to get brunch or dinner. Shopping centres are a great place to watch people being themselves and I got a lot of pleasure from just watching the crowds go by.

Our first photo together was taken at a alfresco dining area, where both of us had just finished a Taiwanese Oolong tea. Delicious.

China

I have been corresponding with Xiaoyu since early October last year. She popped up on RSVP one sunny spring day and I sent a 'hello'. I think that we have emailed each every day since that time. As days morphed into weeks, it became clear there was something developing between us, or the potential for that development. I made plans to come to China, so we could find out whether we might be suited to each other. And I have just recently returned from that trip.

In most respects we are well suited, temperamentally, physically and in terms of our interests. She is a yoga and dance teacher, which is most appealing. I was an English teacher. She wants to start a new life and I have the patience and time to help her. She is keen to learn English. I am keen to help her. And I already have a great interest in Chinese history and culture.

So we shall see. Soon, I hope, she will have a computer and an internet connection so we can regularly chat on QQ. We already like each other and know a lot about each other. We have spent ten days together and I have seen most of Nanning. Xiaoyu has been a wonderful guide. I have met her family and friends. I have experienced great kindness.

I told a close friend of mine that I had reached a very definite fork in the road. She replied that it wasn't so much a fork as a ten-lane expressway. Maybe that is true. Only time will tell.