Phetchabun is a middling-sized city in the plains north of Bangkok. It is bounded by a mountain range whose ghost-clouded slopes can be seen from anywhere in town. Phetchabun puts me in mind of any similar sized Japanese town, except that it's hotter, dustier and less well maintained. Thai towns are also more disorderly, with road rules created on the spot by every motorist and revised several times a day by every motor cyclist. But it's a nice town and has a real sense of place, with day and night markets, a number of Wat and soi that meander into rice and banana fields.

This is Ann's hometown and I could not have made this trip without the help of my loving wife, who has handled money, language, accommodation and much else besides with aplomb. My friends know only too well that I am quirky at times (stark raving-ed.) and she has been my most faithful companion. I love you darling.