I have had something to do with vegetarianism and it's more exacting cousin veganism for a long time now. I was a vegetarian for a dozen years or so and to this day, eat very little meat relative to other foods. Having a Thai wife means being offered many dishes with meat in them, so I cut my losses and stuck to a few options only. But I only do so occasionally, preferring the not-meat substitutes I tend to put into recipes.

I recall with some amusement going out to lunch with vegans, though in reality, dreading what was to take place once seated. This was back in the 1990's when menu's did not have all the accommodating options that they do now, so one took a stab at the obvious vegetable dishes, such as pumpkin soup. Vegans were never content to stop there, and a lengthy interrogation of the waiter ensued. 'Did the chef use chicken stock?' 'Was this cooked in the same pan as a meat product?' This could go on for ten minutes and there were times when we had to walk out, since the level of perfection had not been achieved. I usually gave the flustered waiter and grim smile, as if to say, 'better you than me.'

This early form of virtue-signalling foodism had political roots and still does. Today there is an unhealthy obsession with food going well beyond what is tasty and nutritious. The number of cooking programs which promote an epicurean attitude is extraordinary.

As for me, its a humble organically-grown avocado smashed on ancient grain bespoke breads, that will do the job. Washed down with pesticide-free almond milk flat white non-slave-labour decaf coffee, if you don't mind.